A Bold International Fashion Story That Marked Croatia (1990–1997)
During one of the most sensitive periods in Croatian history, amid war and profound social upheaval, one of the country’s most daring cultural projects was born in Opatija – Fashion News, an international fashion festival that, from 1990 to 1997, connected the Croatian fashion scene with Europe at a time when such a connection seemed almost impossible. It fostered creativity, industry, education and international collaboration – and for that very reason, it became a legend.
The Fashion News project was launched in the late 1980s as a unique fashion festival that profoundly shaped the history of Croatian fashion. Behind it stood the vision, energy and persistence of Katja Restović, then owner of the Studio Art Design fashion agency.
— At that time, fashion in Croatia practically did not exist — recalls Katja Restović, adding that only a handful of fashion designers were active nationwide, while the only larger events were shows such as Zlatna igla. This is precisely why Fashion News was not merely a festival, but a process of creating an entire fashion scene.
From the very beginning, the project was conceived as a platform for the development of young designers and fashion design.
— We were literally creating fashion designers. We taught people who wanted to enter this special world how to draw, think in collections and build an authentic authorial expression — says Restović.
The festival was held twice a year, in line with the global fashion calendar, featuring Spring–Summer and Autumn–Winter shows six months in advance. Each edition included an opening collection produced by the festival itself, while the shows attracted numerous domestic and international guests.
— During those days, Rijeka, Opatija and the surrounding area lived and breathed fashion. Everyone prepared intensely and wanted to present their very best — Restović recalls, noting that the atmosphere was comparable to major European fashion centres.
Fashion News Grand Prix
Awards held a special place in the history of Fashion News, featuring a clear and professional structure and a highly respected jury. The main award was the Fashion News Golden Line, granted to a single best collection, without second or third place. Other awards included the Crystal Label, organised in cooperation with the Faculty of Textile Technology and granting direct university enrolment, as well as the Studio Design Award for the best avant-garde collection.
— Personally, my favourite award was Fashion News Collection, because it enabled the winner to have an entire collection produced by a textile company and released for sale — Restović emphasises.
Fashion News – Cosmetic News – Hairline News
As early as 1990, parallel to the development of Fashion News, plans were made to expand the concept.
— The idea was to develop Cosmetic News as a cosmetics fair and Hairline News as a hairdressing fair, creating a comprehensive and powerful fashion-related system of events — explains Restović.
Although these projects were realised, each was extremely demanding.
— Unfortunately, at that time I did not have enough collaborators or financial resources. It was also wartime, with a severe economic crisis. And everyone knows that it takes at least two to three years of continuous work for a project or fair to truly take root — she says.
The production of Fashion News
The production was highly complex. At the Grand Hotel Adriatic, a venue with limited capacity, up to 120 people could be present backstage at the same time. The wardrobe was managed by Robert Kozjak, while the official hairstylist was the Alexandra salon from Rijeka, owned by Aleksandra Oparov, which still operates successfully today.
— It was an extremely demanding, expensive and complex production, but also highly innovative. Our ambition was to reach the highest standards, aligned with what Europe — especially England — was offering at the time. Our aesthetic priorities were always closer to London fashion than to French or Italian styles — says Restović.
Passion, Dedication and Community
Numerous professionals contributed to Fashion News. Kozjak led a team of seven or eight makeup artists ( Morana Židanik, Ksenija Nakić Alfirevic and others), while Oparov headed an equally large team of hairstylists ( Zinka Tokalić and others). Branko Žak Valenta led part of the choreography, Sebastian Doričić led part of the organization, and in those seven years, a truly large number of people of different profiles were present: Denis Vidović, Stjepan Felber, Livio Karavanić, Boris Kosmač, Roberto Palisca, Branko Mezger, Boris Lešić & “Conex” Rijeka, “Promoline” Jasmina and Eugen Novak, Galiano Pahor and many others. First of all, the fashion legends of Rijeka were always present: Rafaela, Roman Moris, Tarik, Dada Kučić as well as a large number of promising young talents at the time, such as Ella Dušević, Maya Mendrilla, Zoran Mrvoš, Saša Stubičar, Karlo Meloni, Nataša Mihaljčišin, Lidija Fištrek, CZSM Aquarius, Theo de Canziani, Moira Kučić, Irena Škarica, Radovniković Mladen, Vukov Anita, Marjan Padavić, Dario Rossetti and many others.
— It felt as though everyone involved in fashion, makeup, hair and production was breathing the same rhythm. The energy was incredible — passion, dedication and a strong sense of community — recalls Restović.
Even today, many former models and designers remain in touch.
— Fashion News was not just an event. It became a large fashion family, and that is something I am particularly proud of — she concludes.
Fashion News was also strongly positioned internationally, hosting guests and designers from London, Milan and other fashion capitals. Among those involved or present were Alexander McQueen, Anthony Mr. Gammon, Red or Dead and Misa Harada.
— Looking back, I am especially proud that we brought London’s avant-garde to Croatia before these names became global fashion icons — emphasises Restović.
Despite wartime conditions and financial difficulties, Fashion News was held at the Grand Hotel Adriatic in Opatija and later in Rijeka, at the Croatian Cultural Centre and the Governor’s Palace.
— Unfortunately, institutions often failed to recognise the magnitude of the project — says Restović.
— Profit was never the priority; quality always was — she concludes.
Despite numerous offers to sell or continue the project, Restović chose to leave Fashion News as a complete and authentic phenomenon in memory.
— It is better remembered as a spectacular project than transformed into something it was never meant to be. Perhaps one day it will be revived — but only under the right conditions — she concludes.
